Saturday, 7 February 2015

Consumption

Garment prices are mainly based on the fabric consumption. Hence we must pay more attention to find out the fabric consumption more accurately or closely. It needs sound knowledge and good practical experience to find out the fabric consumption. Let us analyse here how to make this calculation.
As the knitted fabrics are knitted by the circular knitting machines, the fabrics will be in tubular form only. Here we are going to see the garments which are made in 100% Cotton fabrics in tubular form.
To work on the prices exactly, we must have full measurements of the garment. But compulsorily, we must have the measurements of Chest, Body Length and Sleeve Length.
  

Variable Functions
Minimize
  1. Fabric Consumption
  2. Fabric Cost
  3. Accessories Cost
  4. Print/Embroidery/Washing Charge
  5. C.M.
  6. Freight (C & F)
  7. Payment mode (at sight deferred payment 60days or 90 days or 120 days, TT, Sales Contract)

Consumption of fabric
Minimize
1. Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =
(L + S.L. + AL-01)
×
(½ C + AL-02)
×
GSM
×2×12+Wastage%
100
100
1000
L (Length)
= HPS (High Point Shoulder
= CBL (Central Back length)
= BL (Body Length)
S.L
= Sleeve Length
AL
= Allowance
Allowance-01:This is actually sewing allowance in length wise of a garment.
For T-Shirt,
Bottom Hem
= 2.5-3 Cm
Shoulder Join
= 1.5 Cm
Sleeve Hem
= 2.5- 3 Cm
Sleeve Join
= 1.5 cm
Sub Total
= 9 cm
In Hand
= 1 cm
Grand Total
=10 cm
Per Cut and Sewn allowance = 2 cm
Note: Pocket, Half moon, double layer bottom hem, and double layer sleeve s/b calculated onlengthwise.
2. Chest Allowance: This is sewing allowance in width wise of garment
a.Side Seam = ½ Chest + 3cm
b.Tube Seam= ½ Chest + 0 cm
c.Per cut and sewn allowance= 2 cm2.
Consumption (Kg/ Doz)= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 2 X 12 + Wastage Percentage
3. Neck Rib # 1x1/1x1 elastane rib circular
Neck Rib Consumption:
Height (Length) = Rib height or rib width or rib depth
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance
Width = Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 5 cm (V-shape)
Picture 01
A=Body Length= 70 cm
B=Sleeve length=25 cm
½ C ==1/2Chest =55 cm
Picture 02
A= Body length 1=15 cm
B=Body Length 2= 15 cm
C= Body Length 3=40 cm
D= ½ Chest=55 cm
A1= Sleeve length1=10 cm
B1= Sleeve Length2=5 cm
C1=Sleeve length3=10 cm
Example:-Calculate the consumption/doz on the basis of 180 GSM, S/J and neck rib gsm 230
For picture 01:
Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =
( 70 + 25 + 10)
×
( 55 + 3)
×
180
× 2 × 12 + 5 %
100
100
1000
= 2.76 kg/ doz
For picture 02:
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color A) =
( 15 + 10 + 8)
×
( 55 + 3 )
×
180
× 2 × 12 + 5 %
100
100
1000
= 0.86 kg/ doz
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color B) =
( 15 + 5 + 4)
×
( 55 + 3 )
×
180
× 2 × 12 + 5 %
100
100
1000
= 0.63 kg/ doz
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color C) =
( 40 + 10 + 5)
×
( 55 + 3 )
×
180
× 2 × 12 + 5 %
100
100
1000
= 1.44 kg/ doz
Total consumption: 0.86+0.63+1.44 = 2.93 kg/ doz
Neck Rib Consumption:
Width = Neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= 19X2+2 = 40 cm
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance= 2X2 +2=6 cm
2. Consumption (Kg/ Doz)
= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 12 + Wastage
= .06 X .4X.230X12+18%
=.07 kg/ Doz
Note:
Following point s/b considered during marketing cost:
1.Fleece dia is not available.
2.Y/D stripe wastage is huge
Math 02
Question: Fabric Length 100yds width 58 inch (Open) GSM 230, what is fabric weight?
Ans:Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in Kg
W (Kg)
= l x w x GSM= (100 Yds X36 X 2.54)/100 X (58 X 2.54)/100X 230/1000
= 91.44 x 1.4732 x .230
= 30.99 kg
2.Question: Fabric weight 50 kg, Fabric width 40 inch (tube) GSM 180. What is fabric length in meter?
Ans:Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in KgW (Kg) = l x w x GSM
50 = l x (40x 2.54x 2)/ 100 X 180/1000
L
= 136.70 meter
= 136.70 x 1.0937 yds [ 1 meter = 1.0937 yds]
= 149.50 yds
3.Question: Fabric price 2.25 USD/ yds, Width 45 inch open, GSM 200,Consumption 3.20 kg / doz, what is the garment fabric cost for per doz garments?
Ans: W (kg)
= L (M) X w (M) X GSM (kg)
= L (M) X (45X2.54)/100 X 200/1000
L (M)
= (3.20 X100X 1000) / (45X 2.54 X 200)
= 13.99 (M)
= 13.99 X 1.0937 yds
= 15.30 yds

Fabric cost (Per doz gmt)
= Length X Unit price/ yds
= 13.99 (M)
= 15.30 x 2.25
= 34.56 USD / Doz
Piping or Binding or Back Tape:
Cons: Length in M x width in M x GSM in Kg x 12 + allowance (18%)
Length: Neck width x 2 + 2 (R shape)
Width: If width is 1 cm or any unit Pls multiply by 4
Wastage:
Distribution:
  1. Sewing wastage = 3%
  2. Cutting and Finishing=2%
  3. Print Wastage=2-3%
  4. Emb. Wastage=2-3%
  5. Garment Wash wastage=5% above (Depends on wash type)
Wash types and their wastage
  • Garment Normal Wash=2-3%
  • Garment Enzyme Wash=3-5%
  • Garment Stone Wash= 5-10%
  • Garment Pigment dyeing & wash=10-20%




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