vGSM
GSM means grams per square meter of a knit, woven or nonwoven fabric. The
weight of one square meter fabric is called the GSM of fabric. It is essential
to made the required GSM fabric according to the buyers requirement.
#How to Control
GSM in Grey fabric :
Ø Variable Dia Quality Pulley: GSM of a grey fabric should be controlled by
Variable dia quality pulley (VDQP) . If Variable dia quality pulley pushed
positive side, then the dia and stitch length is increased. As a result, GSM is
decreased. If variable dia quality pulley pushed at negative side, then the dia
and stitch length of grey fabric decreased. As a result, GSM is increased.
Ø Count of yarn: GSM
of grey fabric depends on count of yarn. If the count of yarn is high, then the
GSM of grey fabric is low. If the count of yarn is low, then the GSM of grey
fabric is high.
Ø Tension of take up roller: If the tension is increased in take up roller,
then the GSM of grey fabric will be low. If the tension of take up roller is
decreased, then the GSM of grey fabric will be high.
Ø
Yarn type: GSM of grey fabric depends of yarn type.
Different types of yarn produce different GSM fabric. For example,
Polyester yarn produce lower GSM fabric & cotton yarn produce high GSM
fabric.
Ø M/c gauge: If m/c gauge is higher, then the GSM of grey fabric
should be high. If the m/c gauge is lower, then GSM of grey fabric should be
low.
Ø Stitch length: High stitch length fabric has low GSM & Low stitch length fabric has
high GSM.
Shrinkage:
Shrinkage is
defined as a change in the dimensions of a fabric or garment. The change may be
negative (losing size from original measurements) or positive (growth in
measurement) in the length, width or thickness of the fabric or garment. While
the thickness of a fabric can change over the course of the life of a garment,
it does not usually cause a problem with the fit of a garment.
# How to control shrinkage of grey
fabric:
Ø Yarn tension: If the yarn tension of grey take up roller is high, then the
shrinkage of grey fabric is low.
Ø
Relaxation time: If the relaxation time of grey fabric
is not maintained , then the shrinkage of grey fabric is increased.
Ø Plated from: Store the grey fabric
in the plated form & not in the roll form. Thus the shrinkage of grey
fabric is controlled.
Ø Quality of yarn:
shrinkage of grey fabric depends of yarn
quality. Shrinkage increases with the
increases of Crimp% of yarn .
Ø Twist
factor: Twist factor increases so that shrinkage will
be increases.
Ø Stitch
length: Stitch length increases so that shrinkage will
be increases.Fabric
Diameter:
Fabric diameter is the width of the fabric. Different diameter fabric is produced by different diameter m/c. It’s also depends upon the number of the feeder of m/c.
# How to control Diameter of grey
fabric:
Ø M/c dia:
Diameter of grey fabric depends upto m/c diameter. If the diameter of m/c is
high, then the diameter of grey fabric
will be high. If the diameter of m/c is low, then the diameter of grey fabric
will be low.
Ø No of needle: If the no of needle of a m/c is high, then
the diameter of the fabric will be high. If the no of needle of a m/c is low,
then the diameter of the fabric will be low.
Ø
No of feeder:
Fabric diameter increases with the increases
of feeder.
Twist:
Twist is defined
as the spiral deposition of the components of a twist is the measure of the
spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibres or threads
together. Twist may be defined as the rotation about the yarn axis of any line
drawn on the yarn which was originally, before twisting parallel to the yarn
axis.
# How to control Twist of grey
fabric:
Ø No of feeder: If the no of feeder of a m/c is high, then the twist of a
fabric will be high. If the no of feeder is low, then the twist of a grey
fabric will be low.
Ø Yarn twist: Twist of grey fabric
will be high , if the yarn twist is high. Twist of grey fabric will be low, if
the yarn twist is low.
EXCELLENT POST
ReplyDeletePlease explain the twist percentage calculation
ReplyDeleteI do not understand if grey fabric take up tension is high then fabric shrinkage is low.
ReplyDelete