Layout /Cutting Marking

After purchasing fabric, pattern, notions, and preparing the fabric (on grain and re-shrunk / washed), you are ready to do the pattern layout. A layout is a plan for the placement of pattern pieces on the fabric.There are various categories of layout marking like grainlines, place of fold brackets, notches etc.There are also various methods of cutting marking such as single size, multi size and cutting in a particular body size

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Layout Markings Grainline: This heavy, solid line with arrows at both ends is usually in the center of the pattern, although it can appear anywhere within the pattern piece. Use it to ensure the pattern is positioned along the straight grain of the fabric, so that the garment or project hangs properly. Unless otherwise indicated, pin the pattern piece so the grainline is parallel to the fabric selvage. Place on Fold Bracket: This solid line with arrows that point to the pattern piece edge, indicates that the piece should be positioned along the fabric fold. This usually applies to garments that do not have a center front or center back seam. Notches: Diamond or trapezoidal shaped symbols along the seamline are used both in pattern layout and during construction. When you are laying out the pattern pieces to match a plaid, stripe or large design, position adjoining notches so that the fabric at the seamlines (not the cutting lines) will match when the seams are sewn. Cutting Markings Cutting Line (single size): The outer line of the pattern piece provides a guide for cutting the fabric. The line sometimes has an illustration of tiny scissors on it. Cutting line (multi-size): Multi-size patterns have several sizes printed on the same tissue and are sold in one envelope. Sometimes the multiple cutting lines are all solid, in which case it helps to highlight your size before cutting, and sometimes each cutting line is a slightly different line configuration. Cutting line within the body of the pattern: When the design has a shorter view, there is often a cutting line for the shorter length within the pattern.

The procedure of Layout of Fabric The pattern guide sheet will probably have several layout illustrations to study. These are based on patternsize, fabric width, and type of fabric (napped, one-way design, etc.). It is often helpful to study and “play with” various layout situations. Sometimes a different layout will enable you to better utilize your fabric. However, do not depart from the suggested layout unless you fully understand layout design and realize that many fabrics need a specific (with nap) layout due to color shading or fabric design. After deciding on a layout view for the pattern size and fabric width, circle it so it is easy to see figure 3 then, look carefully at the layout to find: if the fabric is folded, is it lengthwise or crosswise or a combination of the two.(Figure 4) which pattern pieces are to be used. which layout view is for special fabrics such as nap, one-way designs, or color shading (all pattern pieces MUST be turned in the same direction). (Figure 5) if the fabric is cut on single or double thickness. (Figure 5) Special Layout All napped and knit fabrics require that pattern pieces be laid with their "tops" in the same direction (one-way or with nap layout). Some fabrics are printed with one-way designs and need a "nap" layout. Check large designs since they may need matching, especially at center seams. Plaids and stripes require matching (at the seamline, not the cutting line) in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, if possible. Uneven stripes and plaids require a oneway or “with nap” layout.

Preparing for Layout Before we layout the fabric one needs to do the needful preparation for Fabric layout in garment manufacturing like folding the fabric correctly, pinning the pattern with the fabric , placing pattern pieces, matching grains by measuring and securing the pins to the grain lines and also that the pins should be properly placed and should be in right quantity.

Preparing for Layout When the selected layout view has you fold the fabric, fold it with right sides together. This will make marking easier. Place the fabric on a large cutting surface such as a cutting board, table, or cabinet counter-top.After the pattern pieces you need have been selected, smooth the folds out by hand or lightly press. If there are pattern pieces for interfacing and/or lining, press them and put them aside. Most garments are made with the lengthwise grain running vertically on the body. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, positioning them on the grainline until all pattern pieces are on the fabric. Always start with the large pieces first. (Figure 6) Patterns may be secured to the fabric by pinning or by weights. Actual "pattern weights" can be purchased, but some people use items they have available such as empty glasses, paper weights, or the like. Some fabrics are easily marred and damaged by pins. These fabrics include Ultrasuede, leather, and leather-like fabric.( Figure 7) Place pattern pieces, matching grain by measuring and using pins to secure along the grainline arrow. To do this correctly, position the pattern piece.Next, measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvage or to the folded edge. Move to the other end of the arrow and measure. The distance should be the same at both ends. Pin at each end of the arrows. When pattern pieces are on the fold, be sure to place them exactly on the fold. (Figure 8) If a piece is to be cut on a single thickness, be sure to flip the pattern over to cut the second one. Otherwise, you can end up with two pieces for the same side. When cutting on double fabric, the pattern pieces may be laid right or wrong side up.  Some fabrics require a one-way layout.(Figure 9) This special layout is needed for napped or pile fabrics (such as corduroy, velvet, velveteen), one-way designs (such as flowers "growing" in only one direction), and some plaids. Knits and some woven fabrics exhibit a 3 color shading when the pattern direction is changed. When in doubt, it is advisable to use a one-way layout to avoid a potential problem. (Figure 9) A one-way layout will direct you to lay all pattern pieces heading the same direction. After all pattern pieces have been positioned grain perfect, complete the pinning process. Place the pins in the fabric with their points in toward the outer edge of the pattern. (Figure 9) Pins should be perpendicular to the stitching lines and the cutting line.(Figure 10) Place only enough pins to hold the pattern in place. Putting too many pins in the pattern piece can actually cause you to cut the piece larger than is needed. However, be sure to pin at corners and along straight and curved edges.

Importance of Pattern Making in Garment making Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction.

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Pattern making technique Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For successful dress designing pattermaking forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusibles etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment. There are three methods of preparing patterns: Drafting Draping Bought or commercial pattern Methods of pattern making Drafting Is a two dimensional basic method of preparing a paper pattern. The pattern is prepared on brown paper using personal measurements of the wearer. The garment prepared by this method fits exactly to the satisfaction of the wearer. It is economical to draft one's own pattern. Also changes in style can be made adopting the basic pattern. This type of pattern can be constructed by drafting manually or produced by a computer which has been programmed to construct basic patterns according to given measurements and proportions. Draping Draping can be treated as one involving a detailed survey and study of the figure to build up a reliable fitting experience. Draping originally was called modelling. This was the original method of constructing garment patterns and is still widely used in the clothing design houses in Paris Draping is a free approach and is always to a certain extent experimental and cannot be described as a precise technique. Modelling is done in a fitting room on a dressform with a stand. Dressforms vary in size. Generally an average sized dress form of bust 88 cms or 92 cms is selected for this purpose. The designer works from a sketch or a mental picture and gives a 3-dimension form to an idea of a garment. The wrong side of the fabric is draped on the dressform or a figure. The effect of the fabric as it flows and drapes is readily visible on the dress form. Muslin cloth is used for draping. As the fabric is draped on the dress form pin, and mark the stitching line with a pencil. The muslin pattern which is the end product of draping is removed from the stand and each component is copied on to the paper pattern and necessary allowances are then added to give the design effect as planned by the designer. Bought or Commercial Patterns These patterns provide fashions in current trend designed to fit certain sizes. It is available in tissue paper. These patterns indicate neck sizes for garments such as shirts, chest or bust measurements for children and women; waist, hip and length measurements for pants and skirts. Even to those with the ability and desire to design their own clothing, a commercial pattern makes a good starting point. These patterns explain the steps in using the pattern and are mostly used by dress manufacturing companies. It also gives information on suitable fabrics, quantity of material required, pattern layouts etc. Most figures differ considerably from the average. Uses of Paper Patterns: Paper patterns are useful not only to the beginner but also to the expert as there is no risk of the material being wrongly cut. It is particularly useful to the beginner as it is a better method of learning than cutting the material directly. Paper patterns can be preserved and used whenever required and is therefore time and labour saving. Adjustment in paper patterns can be done to ensure perfect fitting. By using the basic paper pattern it is possible to bring changes in the design. For example the basic sleeve can be adopted to puff or bell sleeve. The use of paper pattern will enable one to cut a garment with a minimum amount of fabric because it is possible for the dress designer to try out the placement of pattern pieces in an economical way.   Contents of Paper Patterns Margin: Extra safety margins are cut beyand the actual cutting line to make adjustments while stitching. Margins are generally allowed on upholstry items such as sofa slip covers. Cutting line: This is the actual line on which garments are cut. Stitching line: Paper pattern shows the exact stitching line so that the person stitching the garment will identify where exactly the actual stitching has to be done. Fold line: When there are two sides to a pattern such as back & front side then the fold line on the pattern has to be clearly indicated marking it as Fold Line. Grain line: Every pattern piece has an arrow indicating the grainline - whether the fabric has to be cut on straight or cross grain, Collars, cuffs and other trimmings are cut on the cross grain to give a better finish to the garment. Construction details: Tucks, darts, button holes, centre front, centre back, pocket markings, buttons, style features of the garment are all shown on the paper pattern' Graceful curves and shapes wherever required on the paper pattern are also clearly indicated. Pattern size and particulars like front, back, sleeve, collar, cuff etc are shown. If necessary the pattern can also suggest and explain the steps in preparing the garment like marking, cutting and stitching the garment. This is generally done in a commercial pattern to enable the sewer to use the pattern correctly.