Garments Pattern | Pattern Making | To Make a Pattern for Trouser

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Experiment name: To make a pattern for trouser. 

Objectives: 

1. To know how to make a pattern for trouser.
2. To know about its importance.

Introduction: 

A pattern is the actual copy of different parts of a garment that is made by cutting board paper after sketching on it. According to this pattern cloth is cut and then garment is made. For industrial production different patterns are made for different size and a marker is made with these different patterns for a large-scale production. Then many cloths are cut at a time and finally garments are made by large number of workers in garments industry. 

Pattern making

Functions: 

Now making a pattern has some functions. These are as follows: 

1. To sketch the parts primarily according to the body on paper.
2. To make pattern for different size by increasing measurements.
3. To make a marker for large-scale production.
4. To use these patterns made by standard body measurement for many times.
5. Finally to save time and money to make fast and cheaper production.

Measurements for trouser: 

For making different sizes pattern our students are divided in 7 groups. I was in group 2. A pattern size for trouser is indicated by its waist size. Group 2 was given waist size 74 cm. Now for making a pattern of trouser other measurements are given below:

Parameter .................Measurement

• Waist .................................74 cm
• Seat .................................. 94 cm
• Body Rise ..........................27.2 cm
• Inside leg ...........................79 cm
• Bottom width .....................24 cm
• Waistband depth ................4 cm

Now the parameters are discussed below: 

1. Waist: It is the joint place of the upper body and lower body of human.
2. Seat: There is a point at the bottom centre of a trouser that is called cross point. Now the seat is about 6-7 cm above this cross point.
3. Body Rise: Body Rise is the sum of front rise and back rise. 
4. Inside leg: The measure along the sewn from the cross point to the bottom.
5. Bottom width: The diameter of the bottom of a trouser.
6. Waistband depth: it is the depth of waistband where the belt is we wear the belt.

Different parts of a trouser:  

A trouser has the following 6 parts: 

1. Two sides of leg: Top side and bottom side (both has left and right part).
2. Waistband: Two pieces for left and right. Left piece is bigger because of having hooks.
3. Belt loops: According to the wish of pattern maker there may 5, 6 or 7 loops.
4. Fly piece: Two pieces for left and right.
5. Pocket back: There are total 4 pieces with 2 pieces for each left and right side.
6. Pocket facing: Two pieces for left and right side.

Apparatus: 

1. Board paper – 2 pieces
2. Pencil 2B - 2 pieces
3. Eraser - 1 piece
4. Meter scale - 1 piece
5. Set square - 1 piece
6. Calculator
7. Scissor - 1 piece

Working Procedure: 

For the advantage of working the procedure is divided in 4 parts: 

1. Top side
2. Under side
3. Pocket bag
4. Pocket facing
5. Fly piece
6. Waistband.

1. Top side 
At first take a board paper and spread it on a flat table. Mark a point at the left top corner of board paper keeping space from top about 1 cm and from left 21 cm. Give this point number 0.

Now from 0 draw 3 lines at right angles to each other to the bottom, right and left sides. Then;

0-1 Body rise 27.2 cm + 1 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle.
1-2 Inside leg 79 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to 1-2 line.
2-3 ½ of (1-2) + 5 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to1-2 line.
1-4 ¼ of body rise. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to 0-1 line.
1-5 1/12 of seat + 1.5 cm. Draw a normal from 5 on 1-5 line that indicate 6 & 7 points.
6-8 ¼ of seat + 2 cm.
5-9 1/16 of seat + 0.5 cm.
7-10 1 cm. Draw front curve adding 9, 6 & 10 points.
10-11 ¼ of waistband + 2.5 cm.
2-12 ½ of bottom width.
2-13 ½ of bottom width. 

Then joint 12-14 & 13-15 with straight lines. During making curve 11-8 expanding 0.5 cm at outside and 8-14 compressing 0.5 cm at inside lines are drawn. During making curve 9-15 compressing 1 cm at inside lines are drawn.

2. Under side 
Now on the same board paper this pattern is drawn. But the paper is rotated at 180º angles that the previous topside now becomes the bottom side and the bottom side into topside. Mark a point at the left top corner of board paper keeping space from top about 1 cm and from left 21 cm. Like the previous topside pattern 1-16 is drawn and then;

5-16 ¼ of 1-5. Draw a normal from 16 on 1-16 line that indicates 17 & 18 points.
19 Mid-point of 16-18.
18-20 2 cm.
20-21 1 cm.
9-22 ½ of 5-9 + 0.5 cm.
22-23 0.5 cm.
Then draw beck fork adding 23, 19 & 21 points.
21-24 ¼ of waist + 4.5 cm.
25 Mid-point of waist (21-24). Draw a 12 cm length line from 25 point at the bottom at right angle to 21-24 line and make 2.5 cm width dart.

17-26 ¼ of seat + 3 cm.
12-27 2 cm.
13-28 2 cm.
14-29 2 cm.
15-30 2 cm. 

Then draw side seam adding 24, 26, 29 & 27 points and draw inside leg adding 23, 30 & 28 points. Mark a point D at 12 cm distant from point 25. This is the mid-point of face for making back pocket. At mid distant of 12 cm indicate the width of pocket 14 cm. Now adding 5 cm hem allowance the topside and under side patterns are cut.

3. Pocket bag 
On the topside pattern mark a point A at the point 28. Then;
A-B 5 cm.
B-C 19 cm.
B-F 17 cm.
F-E 32 cm.
E-D 17 cm.
Adding A, B, C, D, E & F points the pocket bag is drawn. Now the 2nd board paper is taken and this pocket bag is copied on this.

4. Pocket facing 
A point B is marked at suitable place under or side of the pocket bag. Then;
B-C 19 cm + 2 cm.
C-D 6 cm.

5. Fly piece 
Mark a point A under the pocket facing. Then;
A-B 24 cm.
A-C 5 cm.

6. Waistband 
A point G is marked under the fly piece keeping available space. The waistband has two parts: Left part and right part.

Left part 
G-H 4cm
G-I ½ of waist
I-J 4 cm
H-K 0.5 cm
Add G, I, J, H & K.
I-L 4 cm (fly piece extension)
Draw a normal on the expanded of HJ line.

Right part 
The same drawing from G-K is drawn. Then;
I-M 9 cm (button stand extension)
Draw a normal on the expanded of HJ line.
Now after adding necessary allowance to the pattern pieces these are cut.

Precautions: 

1. The table should be flat and smooth.
2. The pencil used should be soft and sharp.
3. The eraser should be clean.
4. During drawing the line should be drawn at a time.
5. No over drawing is allowable.
6. Measurement should be taken carefully.
7. To draw normal set square should be used.
8. The scissor should be sharp.
9. When cutting the seam should be cut at a time otherwise rough edge is produced.

Conclusion: 
Skillness, technical knowledge, analytical power of drawing and special ability on technology of making garments are necessary for pattern making. Special care is very essential here because if any fault is occurred during making pattern such as design or measure or lack of any piece and if these faults are not corrected before marker making then the whole production is cancelled. So we should have clear idea and sufficient knowledge on pattern making and should be very careful during pattern making.

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/garments-pattern-pattern-making-to-make.html#ixzz3SS9wtI4y