Monday, 2 February 2015

A Fix for a Baggy Seat

As I was reviewing myTrouser Draft CDfor updates, I wanted to revise how I treat a bag under the seat.  So, for those who have my CD, and those who don't, here's the revised way I treat this alteration.
This illustration shows the problem--a ripple under the seat.  This occurs for a variety of reasons, but it can be easily corrected.

Pin the excess out of the muslin,  under the seat, so the trouser leg hangs crisply.  This will result in a "double-ended dart" shape.  Transfer this shape from the muslin to the paper pattern.  It will look like this.

After the alteration is on the paper, draw two parallel lines, 90 degrees to the grainliine.  The distance between these lines, is the deepest part of the dart. Measure the distance between the two lines.

Next, fold out the excess by bringing the two parallel lines together and taping them closed.  The shaded area represents the amount of excess folded out.  Making this fold causes the inseam and outseam on the back leg pattern to be shorter. 



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