Physical Properties of Cotton Fiber | End Uses of Cotton Fiber

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Cotton Fiber:

Among the seed and fruit fibres, cotton has grown in stature as the most important textile fibre in the world. In fact, cotton is the backbone and basic foundation of the world’s textile trade and industry. Cotton is a natural vegetable fibre produced in the cotton plant in many countries of the world even in Bangladesh also.

Properties of Cotton Fibres:

 
Properties of cotton fiber can be divided into two parts, one is according to physical structure and another is using process.

A. According to physical structure:

Length of cotton fiber:
Physically the individual cotton fibres consist of a single long tubular cell. Its length is about 1200-1500 times than its breadth. Length of cotton fibre varies from 16mm to 52 mm depending upon the type of cotton.

1. Indian cotton- 16-25 mm
2. American cotton- 20-30 mm
3. Sea Island- 38-52 mm
4. Egyptian cotton- 30-38 mm

Fineness of cotton fiber:
Longer the fibre, finer the fibre in case of cotton fibre. It is expressed in term of decitex and it varies from 1.1 to2.3 decitex.

1. Indian= 2.2-2.3dtex
2. American= 2.1-2.2 dtex
3. Egyptian= 1.2-1.8 dtex
4. Sea Island= 1.0-1.1 dtex

Fineness may be more in case of immature fibre. So it is necessary to express maturity with fineness.

Strength and extension of cotton fiber:
Cotton fibre is fairly among natural fibres in relation to tenacity which is 3-3.5g/dtex. Its tensile strength is between wool and silk fibre but disadvantage is low extension at break which is 5-7%.

Elastic properties of cotton:
Recovery from deformation of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric from applied load is very low. By applying heat it can’t be achieved. This property can be achieved by -1.Chemical treatment to improve crease recovery, but the problem is the materials become harsher due to chemical treatment 2. blending or mixing of cotton with elastic fibre, e.g. polyester, blend ratio depends on the end use of the fabric. The initial modulus is fairly high=0
5 g/dtex (wool=0.25 g/dtex)

Cross-section:
Cross-section of cotton fibre is some what ribbon like. The cell wall is rather thin and the lumen occupies about two-third of the entire breadth and shows up very prominent in polarized light. Fibre cross-section becomes round when mercerized.

Appearance:
Cotton fibre is fairly short, fine and creamy white color. Color of the fibre depends on soil of growth. By adding chemicals in the soil, color of the cotton fibre may be varied.

Crimp:
Cotton fibre is more or less twisted on its longitudinal axis which cab not be seen from out side is called convolution. The twist in the fibre does not to be continuous in one direction i.e. if at first right direction, then left direction. This property of cotton fibre helps in spinning.

B. According to using process:

Comfortable: 

Cotton fiber has large amorphous portion and this is why the air can be in and out through cotton fiber. So, the fabric made by cotton fiber is quite comfortable to use. 

Soft Hand: 

 Cotton fiber is too much regular fiber and if properly ginned; this fibre can be the best soft hand feeling fibre amongst the others. 

Absorbent: 

Cotton fiber has high absorbency power and this is why this fiber can be died properly and without any harassment. 

Good Color Retention: 

If the printing is applied on cotton fiber, it seems it doesn’t spread the color outside the design. So printing efficiency is good on cotton fibre. 

Machine Washable & Dry Cleanable: 

It is seen that some fibers can’t be dried or washed due to it’s sensitivity and weak fastness properties but in case of Cotton fiber you will have large number of options to choose. You can easily wash the cotton made fabric by machines and even you will be able to dry this fiber by using electronic drier. 

Good Strength: 

If you want to seek an average strength which might be enough for you; then cotton fiber can be your ultimate choice. The strength of cotton fiber is quite good. 

Cotton Fibre Drapes Well: 

The drape-ability of cotton fibre is awesome. You can use the cotton fibre made fabric in any kind of wear which needs more flexibility and drapes. 

Sewing & Handling Is Easy: 

 The sewing efficiency on Cotton made fabric is easier and comfortable than other fiber. This is why the demand of cotton made fabric is higher in all over the world.

Uses of Cotton Fiber: 

Cotton fiber is a versatile fibre which has wide variety of uses. But the Cotton fibre is mostly used on the Apparel Industry to make the wearing cloth like Sweaters, Skirts, Shirts, Swimwear, Kids wear, Blouses, Pants, Hosiery and to make other type of dresses.

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/05/physical-properties-of-cotton-fiber-end_846.html#ixzz3SSDYr62e

Weaving Faults | Faults/Defects/Problems, Causes and Remedies of Weaving

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Weaving:
Weaving is the intersection of two sets of straight yarns, warp and weft, which cross and interlace at right angles to each other. The lengthwise yarns are known as warp yarns and width wise yarns are known as weft or filling yarns and the fabric produced is known as woven fabric. The machine used for weaving fabric is a loom. It is a complex work. A number of faults occur in fabric during weaving process. Main faults in weaving are given below.

Weaving fault

Faults/Defects/Problems in Weaving: 
Major problems/faults/defects of weaving are pointed out below: 

1. Warp streaks
2. Reediness
3. Weft bar
4. Weft crack
5. Thick and thin places
6. Weft loops
7. Box marks
8. High incidence of warp breaks
9. Weft breaks
10. Shuttle traps
11. Shuttle flying
12. Smashes
13. Bad selvedge
14. Broken picks
15. Bullet
16. Half pick
17. Broken end
18. Coarse end
19. Coarse pick
20. Slough off
21. Thick end and thick picks
22. Double end
23. End out
24. Fine end
25. Jerk-in
26. Knot
27. Loom bar
28. Loom barre’
29. Misdraw (Colour)
30. Mispick
31. Reed mark
32. Reed streak
33. Set mark
34. Shade bar
35. Stop mark
36. Tight end
37. Pilling
38. Float
39. Pin marks
40. Contamination of fluff

Causes and Remedies of Weaving Defects: 

Warp streaks: Warp streaks are narrow, barre and dense stripes running along the warp direction. Main reasons are the variation in density of adjacent group of warp ends due to non-uniform dent spacing, wrong drawing-in, or count variations. Also, the variations in lustre, reflectance of dye pick-up of adjacent groups arising out of differences in raw materials, blend composition or yarn constructions contribute for streaks. 

Reediness: These are very fine cracks or lines between groups of warp threads, caused due to excessive warp tension, late shedding, use of coarse reed with more number of ends per dent, bent reed wires, improper spacing of reed wires, wrong drawing, and insufficient troughing of shed, i.e. tension difference between top and bottom shed lines during beat up. 

Weft bar: It is a band running weft-wise across the full width of the cloth. The normal reasons are the periodic medium to long term irregularity in the weft yarn, count difference in weft, excessive tension in the weft feed package, especially in filaments, variability in pick density and difference in twist, colour or shade of adjacent group of picks, difference in blend composition or in the cottons used. 

Weft crack: It is a thin place or missing weft across the body of the fabric. The main causes are improper setting of anti crack motion, loose fitting of reed, loose or worn out crank, worn out crank arm, worn out crank shaft bearings, loose belt, worn out duck bills and beaters, weft fork not functioning properly, faulty take up, brake motion not acting instantaneously, shuttle striking on the weft fork due to weak picking, swing rail worn out, weaver not adjusting the fell of cloth properly at the time of starting a loom, and gripper not holding the weft firmly. 

Thick and thin places: These are similar to weft bar, but unlike weft bars, it repeats at intervals. They are mainly due to irregular let-off, incorrect setting of holding and releasing pawls on the ratchet wheel of take-up motion, gears of take-up motion not meshing properly, and gear wheel teeth worn out or broken. 

Weft loops: Loops project from the surface of cloth either on one or both sides of a cloth because of a small portion of weft getting caught by the warp threads. The main reasons are late shedding, low warp tension and use of bad temples. 

Box marks: Box marks are due to something bruising or staining the weft while it is in or near the box. Main causes are dirty boxes, shuttle riding over the weft, oil from shuttle tongue, dirty shuttles, weft flying about too freely, oil splashes from loose cranks, oily spindles and buffers and dirty picking stick for under pick. 

High incidence of warp breaks: Excessive warp tension, blunt or loose shuttle tip, rough shuttles, too small or too big shed formation, bottom shed line beating down on slay race, jerky movement of healds, too early or too late shedding, race board badly worn out, healds catching each other, sharp or rigid reed wires, warp size accumulation on reed, pirns projecting above or below shuttle, improper sizing, improper humidity in the loom shed, a weaker warp yarn, a higher speed of loom, more number of ends per inch for the count being used, less air space in reed are the main causes for excessive warp breaks. 

Weft breaks: High weft tension, improper build of pirn, knots at the nose or chase of pirns, back stitches in cones fed as weft in shuttleless looms, rough and damaged surface of pirns, shuttle tongue not in level, rough places inside the shuttle, damaged nylon loops, sloughing off or loosely built weft package, shuttle eye chipped or broken, weft trapped in the box, selvedge ends cutting the weft, weft fork too far through the grate, rough box fronts or shuttle guides, improper alignment of cone in weft feeder, lower twist in weft resulting in weft opening out in air-jet looms, grippers missing the picks, improper knotting of tail ends, and rough handling of cones are the main reasons for higher weft breaks. 

Shuttle traps: Entangled warp ends due to fluff falling on the warp, broken warp end entangled to adjacent end, knot with a long tail resulting in entanglement, snarls in yarn getting entangled, too much hairiness in yarns, weak picking, faulty shuttle checking, gear wheels slipping due to broken teeth, loose stop rod finger, and uneven joint of flat belt are the normal reasons for shuttle trap. 

Shuttle flying: Fibrous yarns, knots with long tail ends, slack warp, uneven race board, small sheds, bottom line too high, worn pickers, swells giving twist to the shuttle as it leaves the box, early picking, late shedding, unbalanced shuttle, box spindle not set properly, box front not set properly and missing shuttle guard are the main reasons for shuttle flying. 

Smashes: Daggers not working, frog spring ineffective, bad shuttle, improper boxing of shuttle, worn out picker, worn out transfer hammer, damaged pirn and entanglements are main causes of smashes. 

Bad selvedge: Improper shuttle wire tension, bent shuttle jaw, shuttle crack, more tension on selvedge yarns, late shedding resulting in rubbing of shuttle to the selvedge and improper selection of selvedge weave for the fabric being woven are the main reasons for bad selvedge. 

Broken picks: A filling yarn that is broken in the weaving of a fabric appears as a defect. Improper functioning of weft stop motion results in broken picks undetected and going in to the fabric. 

Bullet: Bullets are low twisted double yarn seen weft wise in fabrics. Those are generally zero twisted parallel yarns. Practical causes of faults are improper functioning of bunch motion, incorrect yarn path through spindle, loose tensioners, capsule and spring working, insufficient yarn as bunch and knot is not applied after removing bunch yarn 

Half pick: In case of rapier looms, if the second rapier does not collect the weft, it shall stop in between, and we get half pick. 

Broken end: A defect in fabric caused by a warp yarn that was broken during weaving or finishing. 

Coarse end: Warp yarn that has a diameter too large, too irregular or that contains too much foreign material to make an even, smooth fabric. 

Coarse pick:  Filling yarn that is too large and imperfect to appear to advantage in the final cloth. 

Slough off: Weft yarn has slipped from the pirn. Proper monitoring of strength and chase in pirn winding can solve this problem. 

Thick end and thick picks: Higher diameter in yarn for a short distance can be due to improper piecing at spinning preparatory or drop in pressure on the drafting rollers for a short time. This also can happen due to not removing of spinners double, not piecing the end properly by removing the lapped materials, accumulation of fluff in condensers, cradles and in the necks of the top rollers. 

Double end: Two ends that weave as one. This happens because of migration of a broken end to the adjacent reed space along with the neighbouring end. 

End out: A warp yarn that was broken or missing during weaving. 

Fine end: A defect in silk warp yarn consisting of thin places that occur when some of the filaments that should be in the warp yarn are absent, generally caused by improper reeling. Warp end of abnormally small diameter, i.e. long thin places of class I1 and I2 also is referred as fine end. 

Jerk-in: An extra piece of filling yarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabric along with a regular pick of filling. 

Knot: Knot is defined as a knob or lump formed by interlacing portions of one or more flexible strands or a quantity of yarn, or thread, which varies with the fibre; it consists of a set of coils. Control in pirn winding, the winding to binding coils ratio can solve this problem. 

Loom bar: A change in shade across the width of a fabric, resulting from a build up of tension in the shuttle before a filling change. 

Loom barre: Repetitive selvedge-to-selvedge unevenness in woven fabric usually attributed to a mechanical defect in the let-off or the take-up motion. 

Misdraw (Colour): In woven fabrics the drawing of coloured yarns through the loom harness contrary to the colour pattern and/or design weave is termed as misdraw. In case of warp knits misdraw is the drawing of coloured yarns through the guide bars contrary to the pattern design. 

Mispick: A defect in woven fabric caused by a missing or out-ofsequence yarn. 

Reed mark: A crack between groups of warp ends, either continuous or at intervals, which can happen due to damaged reed or improper spacing of dents. 

Reed streak: A warp wise defect attributable to a bad reed like uneven reed space, bent reed wire, slant wire, damaged reed wire etc. 

Set mark: Defect in woven fabric resulting from prolonged loom stoppage. Because of the humid weather and the fine dust present in the atmosphere, the cloth exposed shall get slightly different colour and also some relaxation takes place. A combined effect gives a line in weft direction. 

Shade bar: A distinct shade change of short duration across the width of the fabric. This is normally due to a mix up of weft with different property. 

Stop mark: Narrow band of different weave density, across the width of a woven fabric, caused by improper warp tension adjustment after a loom stop. A well trained weaver can reduce this type of defects. 

Tight end: Warp yarn in a woven fabric that was under excessive tension during weaving or shrank more than the normal amount. 

Pilling: Fibre filaments that break in yarn due to friction leaving small clumps of loose fibres on the surface 

Float: Slack warp and Faulty Pattern Card are the main reasons for a float in a woven fabric. 

Pin marks: Poorly adjusted temple pins or damaged pins can lead to pin marks. 

Contamination of fluff: Different fibres or foreign materials get mixed during spinning, winding or in weaving preparation stage, causing visual objection in fabric. The causes are improper cleanliness, not properly cleaning the machines after each doff and lot changes, improper suction of drafting zones of gill boxes and roving, improper cleaning of scrapper and scrapper plate after every lot change of doff, not using of curtains for partition of machines running on different colours, overhead cleaners of ply winding and ring frames blowing dust on running spindles or drums, material not covered to avoid fly and fluff accumulation, use of compressed air for cleaning machines while in working or while adjacent machine is working and use of common return air ducts and running different coloured fibres in the shed.

References:

1. Training and development of technical staff in the textile industry by B. Purushothama
2. https://en.wikipedia.org
3. http://www.scribd.com
4. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/04/fabric-faults-causes-of-woven-fabrics.html

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/weaving-faults-faultsdefectsproblems.html#ixzz3SSCdps8g

Characteristics of Silk Fabrics | Properties of Silk Fabrics

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Silk is one of the popular fabrics for apparel because of its unique properties. Silk is most luxurious fabric, the most comfortable fabric, the most absorbent of fabrics (equal to wool), the best fabric for drape, the best fabric for color, capable of the greatest lustre, having the finest "hand" etc. These are some of the factors which make the fabric more popular. The fabric is cool in summer and warm in winter.

Composition: The silk fibre is chiefly composed of 80% of fibroin, which is protein in nature and 20% of sericin, which is otherwise called as silk gum.

Strength: Silk as a fibre, has good tensile strength, which allows it to withstand great pulling pressure. Silk is the strongest natural fibre and has moderate abrasion resistance. The strength of the thrown yarns is mainly due to the continuous length of the fibre. Spun silk yarn though strong is weaker than thrown silk filament yarns.

Elasticity: Silk fibre is an elastic fibre and may be stretched from 1/7 to 1/5 of its original length before breaking. It tends to return to its original size but gradually loses little of its elasticity. This would mean that the fabric would be less sagging and less binding resulting in the wearers comfort.

Resilience: Silk fabrics retain their shape and have moderate resistance to wrinkling. Fabrics that are made from short – staple spun silk have less resilience.

Drapability: Silk has a liability and suppleness that, aided by its elasticity and resilience, gives it excellent drapability.

Heat Conductivity: Silk is a protein fibre and is a non-conductor of heat similar to that of wool. This makes silk suitable for winter apparel.

Absorbency: Silk fabrics being protein in nature have good absorbency. The absorptive capacity of the silk fabric makes comfortable apparel even for warmer atmosphere. Fabrics made from silk are comfortable in the summer and warm in the winter. Silk fibre can generally absorb about 11 percent of its weight in moisture, but the range varies from 10 percent to as much as 30 percent. This property is also a major factor in silk’s ability to be printed and dyed easily.

Cleanliness and Washability: Silk fabric does not attract dirt because of its smooth surface. The dirt, which gathers can be easily removed by washing or dry cleaning. It is often recommended for the silk garments to be dry-cleaned. Silk fabrics should always be washed with a mild soap and strong agitation in washing machine should be avoided. Silk water – spot easily, but subsequent washing or dry cleaning will restore the appearance of the fabric.

Reaction to Bleaches: Silk, like wool, is deteriorated with chlorine bleaches like sodium hypochlorite. However, mild bleach of hydrogen peroxide or sodium per borate may be used for silk.

Shrinkage: Silk fabrics are subjected only to normal shrinkage which can be restored by ironing. Crepe effect fabrics shrink considerably in washing, but careful ironing with a moderately hot iron will restore the fabric to its original size.

Effect of Heat: Silk is sensitive to heat and begins to decompose at 330° F (165° C). The silk fabrics thus have to be ironed when damp.

Effect of Light: Silk fabric weakens on exposure to sun light. Raw silks are more resistant to light than degummed silk.

Resistance to Mildew: Silks will not mildew unless left for sometime in a damp state or under the extreme conditions of tropical dampness.

Resistance to Insects: Silk may be attacked by the larvae or clothe moths or carpet beetles.

Reaction to Alkalis: Silk is not as sensitive as wool to alkalis, but it can be damaged if the concentration and the temperature are high. A mild soap or detergent in lukewarm water is thus advisable.

Reaction to Acids: Concentrated mineral acids will dissolve silk faster than wool. Organic acids do not harm silk.

Affinity for Dyes: Silk has good absorbency and thus has good affinity for dyes. Dyed silk is colourfast under most conditions, but its resistance to light is unsatisfactory.

Resistance to Perspiration: Perspiration and sunlight weakens and yellows silk fabrics. The silk itself deteriorates and the colour is affected causing staining. Garments worn next to the skin should be washed or other wise cleaned after each wearing.

Textile Calculation | Different Formula of Textile Calculation

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FIBER FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS

Micronaire Value (Cotton): The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram). 

Denier (Man-Made Fibres): Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre. 

Micron (Wool): Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm) 

Conversions: 

• Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value
• Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier

YARN COUNTS 
It is broadly classified into; 

1. INDIRECT SYSTEM
2. DIRECT SYSTEM

INDIRECT SYSTEM 

• English count (Ne)
• French count(Nf)
• Metric count(Nm)
• Worsted count

Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per Kg.

• Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)
• Nm = length meter / weight in grams

DIRECT SYSTEM 

• Tex count
• Denier

CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS

	Tex	Den	Nm	Grains/yd
Tex		den/9	1000/Nm	gr.yd   x 70.86
Ne	590.54/tex	5314.9/den	Nm x .5905	8.33 / gr/yd
Den	tex  x  9		9000/Nm	gr/yd  x 637.7
Nm	1000/tex	9000/den		14.1 / gr/yd
Grains/yd	tex / 70.86	den / 637.7	14.1/Nm

Where, Nm – metric count, Nec – cotton count 

CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS

	Ounce	Grains	Grams	Kilograms	Pounds
Ounce		437.5 grains	28.350 grams
Grains	0.03527 ounces		0.0648 grams
Grams	0.03527 grains	15.432 grains		0.001 kgs
Kilograms	35.274 ounces	15432 grains	1000 grams		2.2046 pounds
Pounds	16.0 ounces	7000 grains	453.59 grams	0.4536 kgs

CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES 

	Yard	Feet	Inches	Centimeter	Meter
Yard		3 feet	36 inches	91.44 cms	0.9144 meter
Feet	0.3333 yards		12 inches	30.48 cms	0.3048 meter
Inches	0.0278 yards	0.0833 feet		2.54 cms	0.254 meter
Centimeter	0.0109 yards	0.0328 feet	0.3937 inches		0.01meter
Meter	1.0936 yards	3.281 feet	39.37 inches	100 cms

CALCULATIONS 

• Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne
• Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
• Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
• Ne = Nm/1.693
• DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
• DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
• DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
• No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605

WINDING 

1. Slub catcher settings : 

  a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter 
                          Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter 

  b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter

 Diameter in inch for Blended yarn   = 1/( 28 x √count ) 
                                                      = 10 to 15% more settings 

                                          Number of objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher
2. Yarn clearer efficiency =.............................................................................................x 100 
                                          Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding

                               Total breaks during winding (at faults) 
3. Knot factor =...............................................................................
                           No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults

                                                  Strength of spliced joint x 100
4. Retained splice strength = ........................................................... 
                                                       Strength of parent yarn 

5. Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams 

                                                  4500 x Y 
6. Expected efficiency E = ......................................................

                                               S x N (12 + 98)

7. Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c) = 2300 operations per shift of 8 hours 

Where, 

• 1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation
• 1 doffing = 2 operations

8. Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours 

Where, 

• 1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation
• 1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation

Y = Length/Bobbin (metres) 
B = Breaks per bobbin 
S = Winding speed (metres/min) 
C = English count 

9. Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne) 

• L - delivery speed in m/min
• effy - efficiency
• Ne - english count
• Nd - No of delvieries

10. P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) 

• P - production in kgs / hr
• L - delivery speed in m/min
• effy- efficiency
• Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
• 840 - constant
• 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

WARPING 

                                             R x 100 
1. Machine Efficiency E =............................. 
                                              R + S

R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec) 

                  1000 x 60 
= ................................................. 
         Machine speed in mtr/min.

S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters 

               B X N X T1        T2          T3 
    = R + ---------------- + ------ + ----------- + T4 
                   400                 L           L x C

• B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters
• N = Number of ends
• L = Set length in 1,000 meters
• C = Beams per creel

Timing of activities in seconds are :

• T1 = To mend a break
• T2 = To change a beam
• T3 = To change a creel
• T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.  

2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs. 

3. Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count) 

4. Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength 


SIZING 

                                          Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends 
1. Warp weight (in kg.) = ……………………………………………x 100 
                                                840 x 2.204 x Warp count 

                                   Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight 
2. Size pick-up % =……………………………………………………… x 100 
                                                 Un-sized warp weight 

3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up % 

                           Sized warp length - Unsized warp length 
4. Stretch % = …………………………………………………x 100 
                                      Un-sized warp length 

                                    Total-ends x Warp length in yards 
5. Sized yarn count = ……………………………………………………… 
                                      Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840 

                                            Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn 
6. % of Moisture content= ………………………………………………… x 100 
                                                            Wt. of sized yarn 


                               Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading 
7. % of Stretch =……………………………………………………… x 100 

                                            Feed counter reading 


                                                         840,000 x D x C 
8. % Droppings on loom = …………………………………. x 100 
                                                        454 Y x N x P 

D = Dropping in gms. 

C = English Count 
Y = Length woven (yds.) 

N = Number of Ends 
P = % size add on

9. Invisible Loss% 

     Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn 
= ………………………………………………………….....................x 100 
                            Amount of size issued 

Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn 
(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor 
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn 

                                                 No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count 
10. Max. Speed of machine = ………………………………………………
                                                      (metres/min) Number of ends 

                                                Number of ends x 0.6 
11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr = …………………………
                                                    English count 

WEAVING 

1. Reed Count : It is calculated in stock port system. 

                                      EPI 
Reed width = ……………………………… 
                          1 + Weft crimp %age 

No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count 

2. Reed Width : 
                                            100 + Weft crimp %age 
Reed width = Cloth width x ……………………………… 
                                                       100 

3. Crimp % : 
                                       Warp length - Cloth length 
Warp Crimp %age =…………………………………………. x 100 
                                                Cloth length 

                                 Weft length - Cloth length 
Weft Crimp %age = ……………………………… x 100 
                                         Cloth length 

                                             EPI 

4. Warp cover factor = .................................... 
                                        √Warp Count 

                                            PPI 
5. Weft cover factor =……………………. 
                                        √Weft count

                                                                        Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F. 
6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. - ………………………………. 
                                                                                  28 

7. Maximum EPI for particular count : 

  a. For plain fabrics = 14 x √Count 

  b. For drill fabrics = √Count x 28 x 4/6 

  c. For satin fabric = √Count x 28 x 5/7 

                                     Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter 
  d. Other design = ……………………………………………………….. 
                             No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat 

                                         1 
8. Yarn diameter = ……………………
                                 28 x √Count 

Weave Density 

1. Warp density = Ends/cm x √Tex x K 
                         = < 250 

2. Filling density = Picks/cm x √Tex x K 
                         = < 350 

                                            (Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100 
3. Weave Density = 50 + …………………………………………… 
                                            (Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100 

4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72

Count Table

To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the same denseness of the fabric :

1. To change the EPI without altering the denseness : 

                               EPI in given cloth x √ Warp count in expected cloth
EPI in Exp.Cloth =……………………………………………………………… 

                                         √ Warp count in given cloth

2. To change the count without altering the denseness : 

                                EPI in exp. cloth2 
EPI in exp. cloth = …………………………………x Count in given cloth 
                                EPI in given cloth 

Warp requirement to weave a cloth : 

                                                Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp% 
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =…………..............................................x Wasteage% 

                                                                 840 x Count 

2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.

    R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI 
=…………………………………x Crimp % x Waste % 
              840 x Count 

                                                                               

3. Cloth length in mtrs.with the given weft weight 

     Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144

=……………………………………………………….

                          PPI x R.S. in inches

For Silk and Polyester : 

1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs.

      Total ends x Count (Denier) 
= ……………………………..............x Crimp% x Waste %age 
                     9000 

2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.

     RS in inches x PPI x Count (Denier) 
= …………………………………........ x Crimp% x Wasteage% 
                        9000 

Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric : 

• Count becomes 4%
• Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser

FABRIC PRODUCTION 

                                                    Motor pulley diameter 
1. Loom speed = Motor RPM x …………………………………. 
                                                    Loom pulley diameter 

                                         Actual production 
2. Loom Efficiency % = ------------------------------- x 100 
                                       Calculated production 

                                             Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight 
3. Moisture Regain % = ----------------------------------------------------- x 100 
                                                      Dryed yarn weight 

                                          Yarn weight - dried yarn weight 
4. Moisture Content % = ----------------------------------------------- x 100 
                                                  Yarn weight 

                                        Total ends x Tape length in metre 
5. Warp weight in Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------ 
                                              1693.6 x Warp count 

                                      RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI 
6. Weft weight in Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------------------- 
                                                  4301.14 x Weft count 

                                             EPI                    PPI 
7. Cloth weight in GSM = ------------------ + -------------------- x 25.6 
                                      Warp count          Weft count 

                                              GSM (Grams per sq. metre) 
8. Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = -------------------------------------------- 
                                                            34 

Material measurement : 
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics : 

        0.0655 (D - d) (D + d) 
L = --------------------------------- 
                      t 

Where,

L = Length of material (feet) 
t = Thickness of fabrics (inches) 
D = Outside diameter (inches) 
d = Inside diameter (inches) 

Weight of yarn in a cloth : 
The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp. 

Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.) 

                                                Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds. 
Where as Weight of warp in lbs = ----------------------------------------------------- 
                                                         840 x Warp yarn count 

Also Weight of weft in lbs.

    Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch) 
= -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

           840 x Weft yarn count 

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/textile-calculation-different-formula.html#ixzz3SSBdWTBx