Sunday, 1 March 2015

Fashion trends are followed and made everyday all over the world



What is the one thing that makes a woman what she is in society? It is the way she is presented, the clothes that she wears, her hair, her makeup and the way she carries herself. To a woman, fashion plays a vital role in her daily life. And fashion trends are followed and made everyday all over the world. Many factors influence the fashion trends of the season. Colors, accessories, types of shoes and clothes, are all an important factor of the different trends and how well it goes down. Here are 10 must have fashion trends:

1. Black and White combination: This year the combination of checks of black and white, pants and basic cardigans are a must have. A black or white striped or checkered bag, or sunglasses or even ear rings would be a very stylish way to dress this year. Black being the most liked color by many, can be worked with many other colors but in combination with white is stands out even more.


2. The Perfect Eye wear: This is another important item that you must have and must look into while purchasing. It is the one thing that helps in bringing out and completing the total look of your wardrobe for the day. Multi colors and different shapes are in this season. Star shapes, squares, diamond shaped and even the basic round shape, with interesting colors, like a leopard print or even the basic pastel colors, or even a shady dark color would be a must have this season. Matching your sunglasses with the clothes that you wear is one of the best trends to set!


3. Wild Pairing: Why wear the same kind of shirts or trousers and match and pair with only the colors that go with it. Mix and match with stripes and solids, and different colors and go crazy. Swirls and thick stripes as well as pin stripes suits are another fashion statement.


4. Ruffles: One of  personal favorites is ruffles, and can be worn throughout the year in different colors and shades, on shirts and suits evening dresses as well as casual dresses. It is known as a very feminine and classy kind of dress type. Be it in a special dance or even a walk on the beach, this can be worn to enhance a woman’s beauty.


5. Flat boots: This kind of footwear is another very trendy look for this season and is a must have. It can be clubbed and worn with basic jeans, leggings or even a short skirt. These kinds of boots come with buckles and even in suede. The recommended colors for this season are dark brown, black or any other dark color.


6. Digital-prints: This is one of the famous trends for this year. Digital printed tops and blouses are a must. Mixing flowery backgrounds with solid colors and shades in different shapes is a must have. Wearing these tops with a trendy jacket of either black or white or even a suit would enhance the print of the top. Flowered backgrounds are one of the most common types.


7. One tone: wearing one single color is another trend for this season. The same colored skirt and top in different materials is a new fashion statement. A matching cardigan with the same colored trousers and a bag of the same shade is now something that is a new trend this season.


8. Silver sneakers: what is the best way to enhance your wardrobe? Own a pair of metallic colored sneakers. Wear it with a formal top and jacket with leggings or wear it with jeans and a tee-shirt it still looks feminine and fabulous.


9. Clutches and Purses: the trendiest accessory this season for purses and clutches are the square and box ones in different sizes. You can match it with anything that you wear; it just has to be of a decent color and can even have designs and patterns to make it look classier.


10. Chunky necklaces: These are a woman’s favorite. A thick gold or silver colored neck piece is what enhances the whole look of whatever you are dressed in. It can be worn with a solid black dress or even a printed gown. These are a few of the “must haves” for this seasons fashion trends. So if you want to look your best, id suggest you follow trend or make it your own!

ISO, Classification, guideline and principles of ISO


ISO:ISO means ‘International Organization for Standardization’ This standard is a guideline for companies to make their organization capable of designing and producing goods/ products of higher quality acceptable to buyers. ISO standards are guidelines which compel the manufacturers to put into effect quality assurance system to work at all stages of manufacturers and service so that only quality goods and services are produced.

Classification, guideline and principles of ISO

a.     ISO 9001:  This standard is applicable for companies which are involved from designing to manufacturing of goods. This is the most comprehensive method.

b.    ISO 9002: This standard is applicable for companies which manufacture goods with buyers or other specification. This is applicable for export oriented garments industry.

c.      ISO 9003:  This standard is applicable for final inspection and test. Different physical, chemical test should be maintained by this standard guideline.


Guideline for ISO 9002:
  1. Quality policy
  2. Quality system
  3. Organization
  4. Contract review
  5. Documentation
  6. Quality in purchase
  7. Traceability of products
  8. Process control
  9. Inspection of  1.incoming 2.in process 3.Final product
  10. Calibration of measuring equipment’s
  11. Inspection and test status
  12. Counter measure                                                        
  13. Handling, storage, packaging and delivery
  14. Quality Records
  15. Internal audit
  16. Training
  17. Statistical quality Techniques
  18. Servicing

Principles:

  1. Customer focus
  2. Leadership
  3. Employee involvement in decision making
  4. Use process approach
  5. Use system approach
  6. Effect continuous improvement
  7. Get facts before you decide
  8. Work with your supplier.


a.     ISO 17025:1999:-
It applies for “General requirement for the competence of testing laboratories”

 b.    ISO 14001:2004:-
It applies for “Environmental management system”

 c.    ISO 9001:2008:-
             It applies for quality management system and total quality management”

d.    ISO 18001:2007:-
             It applies for “occupational health and safety management system”

Sewing Process Analysis for jeans pant



 Parts Name of a Jeans Pant:
Pants have been the most common attire for men and women for decades. Not only are they comfortable, but look smart too. From casual wear to formal pants and from the retro style to modern low-rise jeans and denims, different types of pants are now available in the market.




Sewing process analysis are given below

1. Front and Back edge over locking                   3 thread O/L M/C
 2 . Left and Right front join                                      5 thread O/L M/C
 3. Left and Right back join                                       5 thread O/L M/C
 4. Zipper join with ply                                               S/L M/C
 5. Zipper join with front                                           S/L M/C
 6. Front ply stitching                                                 S/L M/C
 7. Curve Pocket sewing                                             S/L M/C
 8. Curve Pocket Stitching                                         S/L M/C
 9. Curve pocket join                                                   S/L M/C
 10. Coin pocket join                                                      S/L M/C
 11. Back pocket rolling                                                D/L M/C
 12. Decoration stitch on pocket                               D/L M/C
 13. Back pocket join                                                      S/L M/C
 14. Out seam                                                                     D/L M/C
 15. In seam                                                                        D/L M/C
 16. Bottom Hemming                                                    D/L M/C
 17. Waist band making                                                  K/S M/C
 18. Waist band close stitch                                         S/L M/C
 19 Loop making                                                             D/L M/C
 20. Loop join                                                                    S/L M/C
 21. Bar taking                                                                   Bar take M/C
 22. Lather label join                                                      S/L M/C
 23. Eyelet hole stitch                                                   Eyelet hole M/C
 24. Button or snap button attach                            Button or snap button M/C
 25. Inspection                                                                 Inspector

Quality Control Management

 PIECE GOODS INSPECTION SYSTEMS
During piece goods inspection – we follow some systems
  • We inspect- at least 10% of the total rolls in the shipment
  • We select – at least one of the roll each color or more than one roll per color
  • We indicate as a major defect – i.e. slabs, mixed yarn, hole , needle mark , missing yarn, 
    crease mark, foreign yarn, Shading, oil mark, dirty, dye spot, color out, broken pattern, grain line etc..
 CUTTING DEPARTMENT QUALITY CONTROL
  • Fabric Relaxation – we open fabric rolls before 24 hours start fabric spreading, rolls selection with same width & shade dye lot.
  • We follow – during spreading — marking placement, running shading, fabric ply tension,
    layer counting, fabric edge controlling. Fabric plies counting. Over lapping & pilling
    direction.
  • We follow – after cutting – narrow goods, cut pieces checked by original pattern, notches, miss-cut, ragged cutting, Matching plies.
  IN PROCESS  QUALITY  CONTROL
Our main motto is to producing good quality merchandises. So we control quality in
process as one of the key.
IN PROCESS AUDITING SYSTEM
  • To ensure good quality – we provide two nos. inspector for 30-40 machines
  • To maintain record data – we provide a format against each machine
  • We make sampling plan with allowable defects
  • We have written quality standards
  • We take measurement in critical process
  • We use arrow sticker to identify defects
  • We inspect 07 pcs. from per bundle i.e.> 24.pcs
  • We follow – AQL- 2.5 in process
  • About reject bundle- the inspector enters the operators name on the four tickets, places these tickets with the rejected bundle & takes the bundle to the sewing supervisor for review. The sewing supervisor explains the problem to the operator, shows the operator how to repair or correct the problem. & instructs the operator to 100% inspect the entire bundle, making all necessary repairs before starting to work another bundle.


RECORD  KEEPING  IN- PROCEES  AUDITING
We maintain a record or report from for each individual process as below:
  • Date, operator name & time – clock number
  • Operation number
  • Sewing supervisor & line number
  • Daily in process audits showing units inspected & units found defect
  • We maintain a weekly summary to show total units inspected, total defects found &
    Percent defective
TABLE  INSPECTION
To maintaining good quality – we make a inspection report from ”sewing line finish garment”;
  • Date/hourly production quantity, inspected quantity, rejected quantity & pass quantity
  • Identify defective & rectified quantity
ACCEPTABLE  QUALITY  LABEL (AQL)
Before start finishing work – we follow AQL system through a format;
  • Buyer, item, style, Purchase Order, order quantity, audit time, lot quantity, sample quantity, 
    measurement, defect allowed, total defects Percent of defects. Pass/fail
  • Pass >> allowed for start the finishing work
  • Fail >> full lot – 100% re-inspection
PRE- FINAL  INSPECTION
We make a pre final to avoid as bellows;
  • Incorrect quantity.
  • Incorrect price ticket/bar code, hang tag/OTC tag, hanger &sizer cap, garment sticker/poly bag sticker.
  • Carton – shipping mark printing problem/carton sticker.
  • Carton not as specified.
  • Crushed or damaged cartons.
  • Incorrect pre-pack 1] assortments 2] Amounts 3] Pre- pack stickers

Types of Printing Method, Printing ingredients function


Printing involves the production of a predetermined colored pattern on a fabric, usually with a definite repeat. It can be described as a localized form of dyeing, applying colorant to selected areas of the fabric to build up the design.


Available Printing Types Method:
  1. Block Printing
  2. Batik Printing
  3. Spray Printing
  4. Transfer Printing
  5. Screen Printing
  6. Rubber Printing
  7. Laser Printing

Printing ingredients function:
  1. 1.     Dye or pigment:
  • Ø To provide required color into the design. Example: Reactive, Disperse etc.
  
  1. 2.     Solvents:
  • Ø To dissolve the chemicals and dyes properly into the water.  Example: Tetra line, Ethylene glycol etc.

  1. 3.     Hygroscopic agent:
  • Ø For better fixation of color.  Example: Glycerin

  1. 4.     Thickener:
  • Ø To provide a sharp outline of the printed design and reduce the spreading of color. Example: Starch. CMC

  1. 5.     Defoaming agent:
  • Ø Reduce foam formation in the print paste.  Example: Silicon (Si)

  1. 6.     Oxidizing agent:
  • Ø To develop the final color during the printing process. Example: Sodium Bromate (NaBrO3)

  1. 7.     Reducing agent:
  • Ø It is used basically during discharge printing.  Example: Sodium bi sulphate (NaHSO4)
  1. 8.     Wetting agent:
  • Ø It improves the penetration of the color and gives brighter shade after printing.  Example: Monopol, Turkey red oil etc.

  1. 9.     Catalyst:
  • Ø It accelerates the reactions during printing of different ingredients and improves the better color formation. Example: Potassium Ferro cyanide.

  1. 10.          Acid or Alkali:

  • Ø It is used for PH control. Example: HNO3 (Nitric Acid), NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide), NH3OH ( Ammonium Hydroxide)

  1. 11.                         Mild- Oxidizing agent:
  • Ø It reduces the destruction of dye or color during steaming/ curing. Example: Ludigol, Resist salt L [ Cu(NO3)2]

Advanced Dyeing Technology in Textile Industry; FOAM Dyeing



Dyeing is the most important stage in Textile processing. Without it, We can’t get a proper colorful textile material. Because dyeing is “the process of coloring fibers, yarns or fabrics by using a liquid containing coloring matter for imparting a particular hue to a substance.”  


We can do it by different process in textile industry. Now in modern time many advanced technology used for dyeing in textile industry. So for this reason, Today at first I discuss about one of the most advanced dyeing technology which is Foam dyeing.


In  foam dyeing, the main dyeing elements is foam. For that’s this dyeing is called foam dyeing. A fabric is padded with a foam formed from an aqueous solution of a dyestuff, a foaming agent and a carrier for the dyestuff and the padded fabric is maintained at elevated temperatures to fix the dye. The advantages of the process include improved dye prefixation, improved migration of the dye into the fiber, higher color yields in the fabric even after relatively short dyeing times and improved dimensional stability of the dyed fabrics.


Types of Foam dyeing
Broadly there are two types of foam namely :
    1. Dispersion foam
    2. Condensation foam

  Materials Need for Foam Dyeing:
 - White fabric – cotton, rayon, silk or other natural  fiber to dye on
- Dharma Fiber Reactive MX dyes
- Soda Ash Fixer
- Synthrapol
- Squeeze bottles to hold your dyes
- Foam shaving cream, preferably containing aloe
- Flat, shallow, plastic or metal pan
- Plastic mixing bowls
- Wire whisk
- Tape

Requirements of Foaming Agents :
—  It should generate foam readily.
—  It should offer a good wetting capability.
—  It should exert fast an uniform wetting action.
—  It should show little or no effect on colour fastness.
—  It should be compatible with other products of the finishing mix.
—  It should be least effected by water hardness.
—  It should not cause yellowing of white materials.
—  It should be easily stabilized.
—  It should be capable of producing various bubble sizes to meet specific requirements.

Foam dyeing procedure:
 1. Pre-wash the fabric in Synthrapol. This removes any oils or dirt that might be on the fabric and gives you better dye results.
2. Dissolve one cup soda ash in one gallon of hot water. Soak the fabric in the soda ash solution for 5-10 minutes, wring lightly and hang dry.
3. Dissolve your dye powders (2 tsps. for colors without an *, 4 tsps. for colors with one *, 8 tsps. for colors with two *) in a small amount of warm water, stirring into a smooth paste. Stir in 1/2 cup lukewarm water. For reds and colors containing red, filter the dye solution through a coffee filter or piece of silk to remove difficult to dissolve particles. Add 1/2 cup shaving cream to the filtered dye solution, then pour this mixture into the squeeze bottle.
4. Dilute about half a can of shaving cream with a cup of water in a large mixing bowl. Whisk the mixture until well blended and thick and creamy. Pour mixture into the tray until about an inch deep

5. Squirt the dye/shaving cream mixture over the shaving cream/water mixture in the tray in any pattern you wish. Use a comb, chopsticks, or any tool to swirl and spread the dye into any pattern desired.
6. Place a piece of the prepared fabric on the surface of the shaving cream and dye pattern. Remove any air bubbles by pushing down gently with a tool or a gloved hand.
7. Allow the fabric to sit on the surface of the dye/shaving cream for 5 minutes, then remove fabric by lifting carefully. Place on a flat surface shaving cream side up and allow to sit for 2 to 24 hours to develop the dye. The piece needs to remain moist for the activation to take place.
8. Rinse fabric in cool running water to remove the soda ash, and then increase temperature to hot. Continue to rinse until water is almost clear, then wash in hot water and Synthrapol to remove any excess dye. Dry, press and voila! 

Definition of different types of yarn


  • Spun yarn: Spun yarn is defined as the twisted continuous strand of staple fiber having considerable strength; twist is given to gripping each other of staple fiber. It should have definite fineness and no. of twist per inch, which ensure its suitability for next consequence processes. Spun yarns are formed by flyer, rotor, air-jet and vortex-spinning system.
  • Filament yarn: Filament yarn is defined as the twisted or without twisted strands of filaments, where each filament runs the whole length of yarn. When yarn is composed of one filament is called ‘monofilament yarn’. If yarn is composed of more than one filament is called ‘multifilament yarn’. There are approximately 50 to more than 100 filaments present in one multifilament yarn.
  • Carded yarn: Yarn produced from fibers that have been only carded but not combed. Carded yarn is also ring, rotor and vortex yarn.
  • Combed yarn: Yarn produced from fibers that have been both carded and combed. Normally carded yarn is manufactured by ring spinning system. The combing process is an additional step beyond carding. In this process the fibers are arranged in a highly parallel form, and additional short fibers, neps and trash are removed, producing high quality yarns with excellent strength and evenness. Normally combing is necessary to manufacture good quality fine yarn.
  • Ring yarn: Ring yarn is formed by the twisting of ring and traveler combination by ring spinning machine. Normally ring yarn can be coarse to fine in fineness.
  • Rotor yarn: Rotor yarn is formed by twisting of rotor by rotor spinning machine. This yarn can be formed from short fiber. Normally rotor yarn is coarse. Rotor yarn is also called open end yarn.
  • Air-jet yarn: Air-jet yarn is manufactured by air-jet spinning machine. This yarn is false twist or zero twist yarn. This yarn is coarse to medium in fineness.
  • Vortex yarn: Vortex yarn is manufactured by vortex spinning machine. This yarn is coarse to medium in fineness. Vortex yarn is also open end yarn.
  • Woven yarn: Yarn is manufactured for the purpose of woven cloth manufacturing is called woven yarn. If yarn is used at the lengthwise direction of cloth is called warp yarn and if yarn is used at the widthwise direction of cloth is called weft yarn. Normally warp yarn is stronger than weft yarn.
  • Knit yarn: yarn which is manufactured for the purpose of knitted cloth manufacturing is called knit yarn. Knit yarn is a low twisted soft yarn.
  • Single yarn: Single yarns are made from single filaments or from group of staple or filament fibers twisted together to form the desired yarn. Monofilament, Multifilament and spun yarns are all single yarns.
  • Ply yarn:   Ply yarns are made by twisting together two or more single yarns. Each part of the yarn is called a ply. Yarn can be two, three or four plied. Sewing thread is ply yarn.
  • Cord yarn: Cord yarns are formed by twisted together of plied yarns. They are seldom used in conventional fabrics.
  • 100% Cotton:  The yarn has 100% cotton fiber.
  • P/C or T/C: Yarn produced by blending of cotton and polyester fibers. The maximum part of this yarn is polyester. The yarn has more than 50% polyester fibers and rest portion is cotton
  • CVC:  A blended yarn having more percentage of cotton as compared to that of polyester is called chief value cotton or CVC yarn. For example,   Cotton: Polyester is 70:30 or 60:40.

Instead of these, there are also many yarns, which are formed by special way with special character for different extra ordinary purpose. The name of some special yarn: Mixture or Ingrain yarn, Mélange yarn, Mottle yarn, Jaspe yarn, Slub yarn, Knop yarn, Loop yarn, Chenille yarn, Crepe yarn, Glitter yarn.